Dont want to DIY it yourself, email me at Phillip@philsdabcorner.com and ill make it!
If you look around at the most popular LED growlight site timber LED or something like that, they are charging 600 dollars for something that isn't even as good as the one we are building, and the x4 cobs costing 100 dollars, the driver costing 100 dollars, and the rest of the stuff coming off amazon at about 130 dollars. You are saving half your money and all your doing is splicing some wires and soldering, Once you see how easy it is you will try to wrap your head around how they can sell the same thing for 600-700 dollars
you need to be sure to buy the right cpu coolers, they are being used as active cooling for the heatsinks, you will need 4 of the Artic Alpine 64 plus unit's for this build. Everything you need is linked directly below. the two main parts the x4 cobs from digikey and the driver from arrow. Everything else is on the amazon bar right below for easy access.
If you never worked on electronics before it can be intimidating when i first built this myself I was scared i wouldn't be able to do it, but I did. The only "hard parts" where figuring out how to splice power line to the LED driver, splice a power line into the Y connector for the 4 artic cooling units. But it actually wasn't that hard. and fun.
If you have ever put together lego's from a guidebook you will be fine, if you have ever built a computer you will be fine, if you have ever done any car work, you will be fine.. To be honest Just read the guide and it will be so detailed you won't have to worry about a thing.
Bridgelux BXRC-35E10K0-L-23 x4 COBs you can snag em here for a bit over 24 dollars each coming out to about 100 total.These COBs(chips on board) are 3500 spectrum, you can change the spectrum out for something else but these are good for vegging and flowering. but you could make two of these LED grow lights and instead have x4 3000 spectrum COBs for your flowerroom, and then x4 5000 spectrum COBs for your veg room
For this guide we use HLG-320H-C2100A LED driver, specifically the A because it has a built in dimmer so when your plants are younger you can dim the power and lower the COBS to the canopy. I bought mine here. Which also has really great customer service, at first i wasn't sure if everything was correct they put me through customer support to their techs where they confirmed the driver would power the 4 bridgelux COB's. https://www.arrow.com/en/products/hlg-320h-c2100a/mean-well-enterprises?utm_source=google&utm_campaign=g-ppc-us-dsa-mean_well_enterprises&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=DYNAMIC+SEARCH+ADS&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8YXXBRDXARIsAMzsQuWhSniTd74y77-r4AUbC5oymUM0EAMQyk8GzajNJg9_Y5PSIhk0rXUaAut0EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJKZvZGu2NoCFQ_J4QodN0kFIQ
Check you got everything from amazon is right and corresponds with what you bought.
Check and make sure you got the right driver, If you don't buy from trusted sites like arrow or digikey, people go buy them on ebay and they will slap a new fake label on an old driver. You can verify its the right version 320h-c2100a by right under that rubber gasket is the dimmer. see if it looks like its ever been used. it's easy to tell. But if you followed my guide to the T you shouldn't worry. digi-key, arrow, and amazon are all on point.
As you see in the picture above, grab all the coolers, connect them all using the Y connector you purchased. After you have connected all 4 of them together cut the head of the Y connector off and get some wire strippers out and ready for step Five
Find the black and red wires and strip a quarter inch off each end so you can insert them into the wago's in the following step. Tie up the remaining wires you don't need them and then wrap them with electrical tape.
Take the one red wire and put it into one side of one of the wago's, take the black wire and insert it into another wago, Now you are ready to cut the head off the 12v 1.5mAh charger cord, strip those too so they will fit into the wago's
After cutting and stripping the 12v 1.5mAh charger/power adapter's head off strip the wires and put 1 wire each from into one of each wago's making the connection with the coolers.
plug the 12v 1.5mAh power adapter into the wall, all the fans should start up like in the video below. If it doesn't don't worry just switch out the wires until they do. Although as long as you have the red and black wire isolated into separate wago's it should't matter as long as the wall plugs wires are connected properly into the wago's. Congrts you just finished the first hard part.
get your mind right, smoke some weed, do a dab, whatever your poison. You want to remember to take breaks and see the whole picture. start thinking how your cobs are going to be glued to the bottom of the coolers using the thermal paste. or how you still gotta buy 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/8 aluminum L shaped things and how the heatsinks fit perfectly onto them.
Gather your 2 packages of 18 gauge wire, get something to cut and strip wire, we are going to start on wiring the cobs.
cut one(1) 18 gauge wire and cut five(5) of black 18 gauge wire for this guide we measured 12 inches long taking into account your cob placement. use the one red wire for your power output out positive in the series wiring of the cob's this guide does for its wiring process.
Attach your 18 gauge wires if you have not already using the same method using wago's to the power in and the power out, using 2 different colors for the power out so you don't get confused when wiring your array series which is important for this guide.
start soldering and pre tinning the wires you going to use, and also pre tin the cobs copper connection spots. Make a pool that fills the entire spot its prety easy it flows perfectly, great chip design.
solder them in and let them set for a few hours then take them and lay them over where you think you are going to want your heatsink/cob sitting on the rails of your frame.
I don't know if i mentioned above for the frame you are going to need four feet x4 of 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" Aluminum Angle 6061-T6 Structural that you cut to specific demensions, for this guide we cut each into 2ft sections's and then ran then drilled holes and used the screws and nuts linked above that is in the amazon link. 4 pieces 2ft long each for the outer frame, then 4 pieces 2ft long each, using clamps drilling holes and placing screws as tightening them super tight. you can measure the rails that will hold the active heatsinks but for this process i preferred to use one of them as a guide for the actual process of lining up the rails to hold the heatsinks/cobs.This company seemed to be the best suited and one of the only reputable companies that made to order and cut them into 4ft pieces for shipment right to your door. you can get the 4x4 special right now its exactly what i got for 15 bucks or something and it costed as much as that i costing 30 bucks altogether for the frame materials.https://www.metals4uonline.com/aluminum-angle-6061-3_4thsx3_4thsx1_8th also by the way im not affiliated with this company at all they just worked for what i needed.
frame completel, lay your heatsinks on the rails, zip tie all the wires down to the rails zip tieing each cob wire so they can be placed onto there respective heatsink.
Flip frame over with heatsinks, recover the thermal paste you bought from above in the amazon panel.
take a old credit card and scape off the pre thermal paste meant for CPU's, we are using thermal paste that is adhesive and more than this small amount in a circular larger area/amount so don't skip out on this, scrape with a card then use some cleaning supplies, personally i used wd40 sprayed onto a towel and got it all off then to make it not slippery i used a dab of dishwashing soap and a damp paper towel and washed it so it was perfect for application.
Now that the heatsinks are clean locate your thermal paste and pre place the cobs and make sure everything is lined, for this guide 12 inch long 18 gauge wire worked fine for the placement of the cobs and heatsinks on the rails.
apply a glob about this sized on the back of the COB and take a card or a gloved finger and work it around the entire surface.
Cover every part of the back side of the COB with a decent amount of thermal paste.
Now that you have applied your COBs to your heatsinks let it sit overnight to dry and harden.
Woops forgot to drill holes to attatch to the light hangers, i suggest doing this before you mount your COBs,
Now you just need a place to hang it and plug it in, Enjoy. Hope I could help and if you have any questions use the form right below or Phillip@PhilsDabCorner.com
If you don't want what the guide outlines, or want exactly what the diy led grow light guide outlines, but just want one build for you. you can contact me at Phillip@philsdabcorner.com
we can get pricing down quite a bit since we arn't some big brand and it's just me, for the DIY guide one, i could sell you that for 450 dollars. But any other one you can have made bigger or smaller would be less or more in price. also depending on specific's as well. Hit me up for a quote a Phillip@philsdabcorner.com
Send me a message lets talk, im here all day !
Sign up to join the secret club, hollar at me.